Roadie Roo's Rabbits

Updated: LOTS OF BUNNIES FOR SALE PRICES LOWERED!!!!

Babies  12/02 For Sale  12/02 Dwarfs 12/02  Lops 12/02   

  Hi, I raise  Netherland Dwarfs and Hollands Lops.  

The Dwarfs are my main breed with the Hollands

 coming in a close second.  

 I am located in Oroville/Brownsville  Ca.

 which is about one hour north of Sacramento

 California. All my rabbits are pedigreed!!! I am

 working very hard to improve the stock that I have

 and to make these wonderful breeds and colors

 available & affordable to everyone!

 Please check around my site if you have any

 questions or if you are interested in any of the

 bunnies just email me!!!

  roadie_roo@yahoo.com  

 My Mom (Cheryl) at Willow Glen Rabbitry  

 also raises rabbits! She has Netherland Dwarfs

 and Lionheads. Check out her site here:  

http://www.freewebs.com/willowglenrabbits/

I will not just HOLD a bunny for you.. The bunny must be paid for in full  or if i agree to it a 50 % non refundable depoist.  If the Deposit or payment isnt received within a timely manner i will move on to the next person.. The rabbits are available  for deposit as soon as i decide what i am keeping and what will be for sale.  I will ALWAYS take back any bunny of mine! It is also YOUR RESPONSABLITY to check the rabbit out before you buy.. Such as the sex of the rabbit  (you double check before you buy) the teeth, ears, nose, nails Check the bunny over for any signs of sickness. Just look the bunny over BEFORE you buy, i will not refund your money . I am usually pretty good at sexing the buns but sometimes "something" can slip by.. This is why you need to double check.If you do get the wrong sex of a bunny i still will not refund your money but i will trade/replace it for a new one. If the bunny becomes sick within 48 hrs of buying i will replace it with a new bunny but you must return the old bunny.  I am NOT responsabile for ANY vets bills of ANY KIND.Also if you buy a brood rabbit or even just a baby i cant gaurentee that  that rabbit will produce for you even though it did for me. So there are NO REFUNDS or exchanges for that. There are NO cash refunds of ANY kind, only replacements. Even if you have not read this this still applys  to you! ( LIke if you have not seen my site but have purchased a bunny from me.)

 Thanks!!

Dial Up Internet

.These are just some Tips that i have gotten from a few Rabbit Care sites.

What You Need to Know Before Deciding on a Rabbit

• Being social, rabbits need a great deal of interaction with their owners and/or other rabbits to be happy. Daily playtime and exercise outside of their cage is necessary.
• They are not low maintenance - it takes a good deal of work to properly care for a rabbit.
• Rabbit pellets alone are not a sufficient diet -- they need lots of roughage in the form of good quality hay and a variety of fresh vegetables.
• They do need to chew, so lots of safe chew toys should be provided, and any spaces where the rabbit is allowed to run must be carefully rabbit-proofed.
• They need a relatively large cage ( i reccomend at least 18x24). They are also better off indoors, where they can be more social with their family and also are also safe from predators (even in the city) and extreme weather.
• While they are generally quiet pets, rabbits are not a good match for active young children who may not be careful enough when picking them up or playing around them.

Recommended Supplies

• Pellet bowl or feeder
• Water bottle/crock
• Hay rack
• Rabbit pellets
• Hay /straw
• Fresh vegetables and fruit
• Wood
• Brush and comb
• Hutch or cage
• Run enclosure
•  

DO NOT pick up a rabbit by the ears; this practice is painful and cruel. To pick up a rabbit, place your hands around its ears to steady it, but use a hand placed under the rabbit’s hindquarters to lift the animal’s weight.

Foods to Avoid
With such sensitive digestive systems, there are a number of foods that rabbits should avoid eating. These include iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, rhubarb, bamboo, seeds, grains, and many others. Also, don't feed your rabbit chocolate, candy, anything moldy, or most human foods. If you are not sure about a certain food, ask your rabbit's veterinarian.

Life expectancy: varies with breed, anywhere from 5 to 15 years.

Diet

The most important component of your rabbit’s diet is grass hay, such as timothy or brome. This is crucial for keeping his intestinal tract healthy. Unlimited hay should be available at all times.

You’ll also need to feed your bunny good-quality rabbit pellets. Opt for a formula with at least 15 to 19 percent protein and 18 percent fiber. Until your pet is fully grown (around six months), he can have all the pellets he wants. After that, pellets should be limited to 1/8 to 1/4 cup per day per five pounds of bunny body weight. Pellets should be fresh and plain, without seeds, nuts or colored tidbits. 

Fresh leafy greens make up a third component of your pet’s diet. He’ll enjoy dark leaf lettuces, collard greens, turnip greens and carrot tops. We recommend a minimum of two cups per six pounds of rabbit.

Clean, fresh water, dispensed in a bottle or sturdy bowl, should be available at all times.

Handling and General Care

Rabbits can be messy, so you’ll need to clean your pet’s cage once or twice weekly. Put your rabbit in a safe room or alternate cage as you sweep out the cage and scrub the floor with warm, soapy water.

Pick up your rabbit by supporting his forequarters with one hand and his hindquarters with the other—failure to do so can result in spinal injuries to the rabbit. Never pick up a rabbit by his ears; this can cause very serious injury.

Brush your rabbit regularly with a soft brush to remove excess hair and keep his coat in good condition. Brush from the back of the head down to the tail. Ask your veterinarian how to clip your pet’s nails